Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2023 begins this month with a slew of new collections to mark another year. As ever, there are plenty of notable moments in store; whether Gucci’s first collection since the departure of Alessandro Michele last November, or Martine Rose’s much-anticipated show as guest designer of Pitti Uomo, the men’s collections will no doubt begin 2023 in style.
From Pitti Uomo in Florence to Milan and Paris, Wallpaper* rounds up what to expect from Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2023 – so far.
Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2023: all you need to know
Pitti Uomo, 10-13 January, 2023
The 103rd edition of Pitti Uomo – the menswear trade fair in Florence, Italy – will begin men’s fashion month with a busy schedule of events centred around the 14th-century Fortezza da Basso. British designer Martine Rose is this season’s marquee name; as ‘Pitti Uomo guest designer’ she will show her A/W 2023 collection in the city’s Loggia del Mercato Nuovo, a historic marketplace in the centre of town. Elsewhere, over 759 brands will show in the fair’s main space – this time, there will even be a dedicated section for clothing for canine and feline companions, ‘Pitti Pets’ – while Belgian designer Jan-Jan Van Essche will hold a show as part of Pitti’s ‘Designer Project’ and British designer Luke Edward Hall’s lifestyle label Château Orlando will have a special installation-cum-presentation at Sala delle Nazioni.
Milan Fashion Week Men’s, 13-17 January 2023
Milan Fashion Week Men’s begins on Friday 13 January 2023 with a show from Gucci – marking the first since the departure of creative director Alessandro Michele last year. As yet, there is little word on what to expect from the show, though attention will be on the house as it enters its latest chapter. Elsewhere, a British contingent will decamp to the city; JW Anderson and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy will both show during the week, the latter marking designer Charles Jeffrey’s Milanese debut. Another new arrival is Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi, who with the support of Dolce & Gabbana – much like Matty Bovan during womenswear last September – will show a collection as part of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s scheme to foster new talent. Following his debut for Etro during women’s fashion week, Marco De Vincenzo will make his menswear debut at the house, while the usual big-ticket names – Prada, Giorgio Armani, Fendi et al – make up the rest of the schedule, no doubt setting the agenda for the season ahead.
Paris Fashion Week, 17-22 January 2023
Eyes will be on Louis Vuitton, whereby an artistic director for the house’s menswear – and successor to Virgil Abloh – has yet to be announced. Whether or not the January show will mark the arrival of a new designer remains to be seen, though as of now it looks likely that Abloh’s team will continue at the helm, as they did last season with a colourful spectacle which paid homage to the late American talent. Elsewhere, Grace Wales Bonner – last season’s guest designer at Pitti Uomo – will show in Paris for the first time; joining her on the schedule is New York-based Emily Adams Bode, whose eponymous label Bode will return to Paris for the first time since prior to the pandemic (British designer Bianca Saunders will also continue to show in the city). Saint Laurent will show on the menswear schedule for the first time since 2015 – a showstopping moment backdropped by a Parisian landmark, no doubt – while Maison Margiela will close out the week on Sunday, bridging the gap between men’s fashion month and couture week which follows.
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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