London-based jeweller Lauren Adriana has focused on producing intricate jewellery in limited quantities since the founding of her eponymous brand a decade ago, producing around 40 pieces annually from her appointment-only base in Mayfair.
‘My work is resolutely abstract, with modernist leanings,’ Adriana says of her distinctive aesthetic which subverts traditional jewellery forms. ‘I am not a fan of naturalism in jewellery; flowers, insects, fauna, etc, so regardless of whatever my actual inspiration may be, I always try to move away from anything truly representational. I really enjoy it when people see things within my work for themselves without being led in any way.’
Lauren Adriana’s geometric jewellery
Jewellery designs look to geometrical silhouettes, springing tight coils of diamonds off the earlobe and spinning discs of precious gems in sorbet shades.
‘Creating pieces that are geometric, while at the same time fluid and wearable is unsurprisingly not that simple,’ Adriana adds. ‘There is a dichotomy between line and form – so I work hard to translate shapes that are both graphic in an aesthetic sense, but at the same time completely in tune with the human body. I love complicated forms – precise and small stacked elements, twists that repeat forever, things that wrap or overlap. Translating this into metal and stone is a joyous challenge – the key to which is understanding tolerances for the materials you work with.’
While accessing the gemstones she requires can prove challenging, Adriana relies on a close-knit circle of suppliers for pieces which juxtapose a melting pot of materials. ‘I enjoy taking my work in new directions, pushing the possibilities for layering up different processes within one piece – especially with the DLC (diamond-like carbon) and diamond-set pieces. I also keep trying to explore colour in different ways, especially the shift between two very similar colours, or a palette of colours across different cuts.’
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Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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